Wine & Spirits: Temecula, First Look at Hidden Treasure

with Daryl F. Mallett & William R. Mallett

Some self-appointed "experts" say there are no good California wines produced outside of the Napa/Sonoma area. Wrong! There are at least eleven wineries near Temecula which produce good wines. Mostly located on or near Rancho California Road, these Southern California "desert" wineries produce a number of award-winning wines.

The first winery you'll encounter on your trek east (from I-15) on Rancho California Road is Hart Winery. On the north side, Hart was established in 1980 by former home winemaker Joseph Hart, who planted nine acres in Temecula in the early '70s. As of 1985, they were producing about 7,000 cases a year (a jump of nearly 5,000 from 1984) of mostly red wines, and a bit of Sauvignon Blanc. The number has increased to about 8,000-10,000 cases now. Call 714/676-6300 for more information.

Right next door is Callaway Vineyard & Winery. Southern California's first winery, it was established in 1974, but pioneer Eli Callaway was planting there in the late '60s. Famous for its fine white wines, Callaway has earned countless awards and praise, including the 1991 America's Cup Official Winery distinction, and the 1976 Bicentennial Celebration Dinner Winery served Queen Elizabeth I of England on her visit here. Callaway also discovered and cultivated America's first botrytized wine. Sold to Hiram Walker in 1981, the winery continues to produce fine wines to this day, jumping from 70,000 cases in Callaway's day to 250,000 cases annually. For tours, wine tastings or to visit their fine restaurant, call 714/676-4001.

Across the street from Callaway is John Culbertson Winery (also known as Culbertson Champagne Cellars). Culbertson's is Southern California's methode champenoise sparkling wine specialist. Established in 1981, they produce between 8,000-12,000 cases of wine yearly. Also of particular note is their restaurant, The Cafe Champagne, located on the premises. Open from 11 a.m. daily, they serve lunch and dinner. Some of our favorites include the smoked chicken with basmati rice, salad and asparagus; the angel hair pasta with fresh daily seafood; and the linguine with scallops. Prices range from $10-20 for entrees. Call 714/699-0099 for the winery; 714/699-0088 for the restaurant.

On the north side again, Piconi Winery is located next door to Callaway. Debuting in 1980 with a Petite Sirah, they produce about 7,000-9,000 cases of wine yearly, ranging from Cabernet Sauvignon to Chenin Blanc, from Chardonnay to Sauvignon Blanc. Call 714/676-5400.

These are just four of Temecula's fine wineries. Give them a look. In Southern California's land of wine, the hospitality is wonderful, the winemakers are friendly and you'll enjoy every minute of your tour, dining experience and visit.

About the Authors

Daryl F. Mallett is a professional editor, freelance writer and actor who managed to narrowly escape death by shotgun when his father mistakenly thought he was a burglar trying to break into the wine cellar.

William R. Mallett is a research chemist who treasures his wines. He cornered his son once with a shotgun thinking him to be a wine burglar.

(Originally published in The Riverside Review Magazine, Vol. 1:8, July 1992.)

Chilean Wines

Chilean wines seem to be all the rage right now. Since the 1980s, there’s an ever-growing stampede on the part of importers to offer them. The reason? They often don’t cost very much, their overall quality has been improving and there are now some producers who are attempting to make serious quality wines that can compete internationally. This, combined with the fact that phylloxera, a root disease that is rampant in Europe, has never reached Chile (and the ousting of Augusto Pinochet) make for a good combination for wine makers there.

Chile has long been producing wine,but only recently have they appeared on the radar of the general American wine consumer. The Spanish were among the first to settle in South America and begin growing vines. Santa Rita, Torres, Montes…all are present in Chile. Locals include Errazuriz, Concha y Toro and Cousino-Macul, while foreign companies operating in Chile including Kendall-Jackson, Franciscan Estates, Mondavi, Chateau Mouton-Rothschild and Chateau Lafite Rothschild.

Photograph courtesy of Miguel Torres S.A.

Miguel Torres traveled to Chile in the 1970s to visit a wine school friend, Alejandro Parot. He was impressed and purchased the Ahrex family estate for the Torres company and began growing grapes. Along the way, he introduced stainless steel fermentation tanks and temperature-regulating equipment, as well as American oak barrels. The Brut Reserva de la Familia is made with Pinot Noir, and has a brilliant and sustained pale gold color. The seductive, fresh, floral aromas bring out the best in appetizers and seafood. For rich aromas, try the Maqueha, a Chardonnay with a generous dose of apple and hazelnut scents and notes of toasted bread and vanilla. It is extremely tasty with caviar, trout, smoked salmon and shellfish. The Santa Digna vineyards now create some fine Sauvignon Blanc wines with citrus/grapefruit notes.

Santa Rita (whose winemakers include Cecilia Torres) commemorates a part of Chilean history with its "120" line, named after the 120 soldier who fought with General Bernardo O'Higgins against the Spanish. The Cabernet Sauvignon, a lively and youthful wine, is red in color, with violet hues and brilliant transparency. Its aroma evokes ripe red fruits and berries and leaves a light, pleasant balance on the palate, which lingers. Best with appetizers, fresh salads, white meats and desserts. The Reserva Sauvignon Blanc is a pale, straw-green wine with intense varietal aromas dominated by grapefruit, citrus, apricots and black currant. It has a long, lingering aftertaste with good acidity and is good as an apertif or with shellfish. Santa Rita is one of the better-selling Chilean wines at Sun Devil. Also try the Casa Real.

Photograph courtesy of Santa Rita Estates.

Montes Alpha M is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdo in an intense, multihued ruby red, with an aroma redolent of berries. The red fruit, with notes of black pepper and spices, blends harmoniously on the palate and goes best with lamb dishes, turkey, venison, rabbit or goose. The company's regular line of Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot and Syrah are also available, all with outstanding scents of fruit.

Most of these wines are under $20 a bottle, with quite a few of them under $10. But the country's wines are continually improving. Red wines still dominate, but whites are coming along nicely, and varietals, like the Petite Sirah and Malbec are now being produced. Most of the wines from Chile are quite young, but there are a few, more ageworthy wines being produced, some of which are seeking to become superstars by breaking the $50 per bottle limit.

(This wine column I ghostwrote for Lori Eccles, owner of Sun Devil Liquors in Mesa, Ariz. Originally appeared in Northeast Mesa Lifestyle, Vol. 1:1, Mar. 2005.)

Wines & Spirits: Fine Pine(apple) Wine

with Daryl F. Mallett & William R. Mallett

A change from the normal every day wine made from grapes, we have discovered wine made from pineapples!

Introducing…Maui Blanc.

Maui Blanc is a wine made from the juice of pineapples. The fermentation of pineapple juice in temperature-controlled vats, stopped at near dryness, has created a soft, dry, fruity white wine with a distinctive and unmistakable pineapple flavor.

We heartily recommend this wine to complement any “white wine dinner,” but especially ham with pineapple, fish or seafood dinners or chicken or turkey meals.

The beautiful labels depict the painting Puu Ola’i, a scene of the coast below the winery. The painting was commissioned especially for the Maui Blanc label and is by Hawaiian artist Curtis Wilson Cost.

Created by Tedeschi Vineyards, located on the island of Mau’i, Hawaii, this wine is grown, fermented, aged and bottled in the heart of the pineapple-growing world.

The standard 750ml bottles retail for about $6 each. You can write to Tedeschi Vineyards at:

Tedeschi Vineyards Ltd.

Ulupalakua, Maui, HI 96790

We have also seen wines made from just about every fruit in existence and have just been told by friends that garlic wine exists. We are currently searching for a bottle. Just the thing to ward off vampires simply by dining well!

An ironically named wine, at least to readers and science fiction folk) is Dandelion Wine, which is produced by the Ackerman Winery. Named for Ray Bradbury’s classic book, this wine’s producer shares the same name as another of the Grand Masters of the field, Forrest J Ackerman. We’ve only seen one bottle to date, and am unsure if the winery still exists, but we are anxious to try this particular wine, as well as to obtain a bottle to place on the bookshelf next to Bradbury’s book. Maybe we’ll even ask Bradbury to sign it…”

About the Authors
Daryl F. Mallett is a professional editor, freelance writer and actor who is trying to convince his father that drinking excessive amounts of wine might be damaging to an older gentleman. (Then he is planning to move in and drink the wines himself.) William R. Mallett is a research chemist who collects fine wines like his son collects fine books…and that’s saying something! He is always on the lookout for something new to stash away in his wine cellar, where it will quietly age, never to be seen by mortals again.

(Originally published in The Riverside Review Magazine, Vol. 1:7, June 1992.)

Wine

with Daryl F. Mallett & William R. Mallett

Commemorative wines celebrating the America's Cup race are being offered from various wineries right now.

The official America's Cup wines are being produced by Callaway Winery here in our own backyard in Temecula. They were selected by the America's Cup Organizing Committee in the spring of 1991 to produce the official America's Cup Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Released in June of 1991 in a limited edition, these wines will be served at events hosted by the America's Cup Committee. They will also be available at wine stores, restaurants and supermarkets throughout the country, but must be purchased by the end of July of 1991, or else they'll be gone!

The America's Cup Cabernet Sauvignon represents the first time since 1982 that Callaway has produced a red wine. This deep garnet-hued wine is a blend of 81 percent Cabernet Sauvignon, 10 percent Merlot and 9 percent Cabernet Franc. It has a rich black cherry and currant flavor.

Due to the incredible success of the America's Cup wine, they will begin releasing their own Cabernet again in July 1991.

The Chardonnay's dominant flavors are spicy green apple, butterscotch and tropical fruit. It's dry with a good body and a crisp, clean finish. Both are highly recommended.

They are retailing for $12 per 750ml bottle. If you have any problems obtaining some, call Callaway Winery at 714/676-4001.

Cooks New Zealand Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc lead the pack of imported wines bearing special labels and marketing. These labels and/or bottles are limited editions and will be a must for any collector of such items. They are being distributed by Corbans Imports Inc., c/o Preiss Imports, P.O. Box 2172, Ramona, CA 92065 or fax your orders to 619/789-5461. The wine is being offered in packages of six 750ml bottles and runs $66, which includes shipping and sales tax.

If you're a fan of the America's Cup, a wine lover or a collector, you'll definitely want to try these wines. Pick up a bottle or two at your local store.

About the Authors
This month, we welcome wine critics Daryl F. Mallett and William R. Mallett. This son-and-father team share obvious expertise. Daryl complains that his father won't share the wine cellar key...

(Originally published in The Riverside Review Magazine, Vol. 1:6, May 1992.)