Friday, April 19, 2013

Flavors of Arizona


Dessert in the Desert
by Daryl F. Mallett

Arizona has historically been known for its “C” products…the traditional five being copper, cattle, cotton, citrus and climate. And, of course, the Grand Canyon. That covers mining, metals, meat, farming, dairy, fiber, textiles, fruit, weather and tourism. But what about all the other “C” products made here, like candy, confections, chips, chili, chocolate, cookies—never mind salsa, pickles, pecans, pasta, sauces, dips, spreads—and any of a number of other culinary delights?

Most people don’t think of Arizona as a booming center for food manufacturing. But the sun-drenched state is a major player in the independent food manufacturing industry. The unique combination of geography, climate and soils found in Arizona produce foods with outstanding varietal character, ranging from pecans and almonds to oranges to chili peppers. Some of these manufacturers are finding new ways to use native desert plants, such as the prickly pear, and there is even a shrimp farm in Gila Bend.

There are over 200 small food manufacturing companies in Arizona that are trying their hardest to get the state on the food industry map. Some analysts estimate that Arizona ranks in the top five states for number of independent food manufacturing companies. A.J.’s Fine Foods carries over 150 local manufacturers’ products, and a group of these companies have founded Flavors of Arizona, an industry association dedicated to encourage, support and promote the sale and consumption of Arizona-processed food products.

It’s a lucrative market, if you can overcome all the hurdles along the way. There are rules and regulations to be followed from everyone from the U.S. Food and Drug Administration; the U.S. Dairy Association; the Occupational Safety and Health Act; the U.S. Postal Service; and state, county and city municipalities. Then add the problem of trying to get distribution, advertising and promotion…oh, and the long hours. There isn’t a story among them that doesn’t include long hours on the job.

Almost all of them have the same story: “I had a recipe from my grandmother and people said I should sell it commercially” or “I got laid off and had to do something.” And it’s not just the small ventures. Even large companies like China Mist and Poore Brothers started in a garage or at a kitchen table. Here are just a few of the tasty treats available throughout Arizona that you can enjoy:

Almond Brothers Confections

While not a famous blues band, two of the founders of Almond Brothers Confections really are brothers. Steve and Larry Godber worked with their father for over 20 years in the retail industry. Their father opened his first store in 1961 and eventually boasted about a dozen Godber’s Gift Shops in Arizona and Colorado, including one at Sky Harbor International Airport, selling primarily souvenirs and Arizona and Native American products.

“My dad and uncle used to mine turquoise in southern Nevada and sold the turquoise to Native Americans, who fashioned it into jewelry,” Steve said. “But the retail industry was a tough one to be in. The last store closed in 2003. But we had decided long before that to get out of the business and do something new.”

In 1997, the trio hit upon the idea to make a food/gift basket company, with roasted almonds as the main product.


Fans of The Allman Brothers band, Steve said, “We just couldn’t resist the play on words.”

The fledgling company started with one roasting machine and a two-pound bag of almonds purchased at a local grocery store. They began selling their cinnamon-roasted almonds, eventually getting into A.J.’s Fine Foods.

They gradually added products, like pretzels and homemade fudge. Now, with nearly a dozen employees, the company purchases raw almonds in 50-pound boxes and have them shipped in directly from growers in California. Pecans for their praline coatings are bought from Shalako Farms in Casa Grande, Ariz., and chocolate and white chocolate coatings are applied at Cerreta’s Candy Co. in Glendale, Ariz. Their product line now includes treats such as candied almonds and nuts, assorted homemade fudge, pralines and many different gift baskets and nut products, and are available in a tiny retail space at the front of their manufacturing facility, on the company’s Website, through mail-order catalogs and at Costco road shows.

“We are extremely grateful to a lot of people who helped us get started,” said Alicia Crabb. “Especially Eileen Spitalny and her partner, David Kravetz, at Fairytale Brownies. They’ve been very supportive and share their knowledge with us about the industry.”

2546 E. Indian School Road, Phoenix, AZ 85016, 602/955-0909, www.almondbrothers.com

Barb’s Bakery

Almost 30 years ago, Barb Schurman opened Barb’s Bakery in Phoenix. All of the delicious creations were made from scratch and she built a following. Nine years ago, Bob and LaVonne Shelker purchased the bakery, keeping the name of its founder. Everything is still made from scratch at the family-owned and operated full-service bakery.

There are “a million kinds” of cakes. “If you can imagine it, or bring in a photo or drawing of it, we can make it,” said LaVonne, who runs the cake division of the company. She and her team create fabulous artistic masterpieces, including a Chinese temple and the Jefferson Memorial. Barb’s has the founder’s signature carrot cake, Butter, as well as seven other types of cake, with nine different flavors of icing and ten different fillings.


Husband Bob runs the rest of the bakery. There are wedding cookies,iced cookies with icing so thick and deep that your teeth sink gratefully into it, pastries and breads “to die for,” including honey bran, blueberry, sour cream and more. Bagels. Nut breads. Coffee cake. Pie. Cheese cake. Muffins. Pastries. The list is endless. There is also a delivery service anywhere in the Valley. No wonder they are a multiple “Best of Phoenix” award-winning bakery!

2929 N. 24thStreet, Phoenix, AZ 85016, 602/957-4422, www.barbsbakery.com

Berto’s Gelato & Sorbet

When Berto Bertuccio came to Phoenix from Sicily in 1986, he had no idea he would find true love. He came to open a gelato shop. The Italian-trained “artisan,” according to current Berto’s owner Ed DeBartolo Jr., “was the top gelato maker in the U.S., recommended by many, many world-renowned chefs, and had 50 years of recipe development under his belt.” Berto began selling his products to restaurants and, along the way, he wandered into Isabella Mannone’s restaurant, La Fontanella, and the two ended up married.

In 2002, DeBartolo, who owned part of a cheese manufacturing company in California, wanted to move his family to Phoenix and start or buy a gelato company. “It’s the fastest-growing segment of the ice cream industry,”he said.

So, he called on Berto and offered to purchase the company. The following year, the company began selling retail products to complement its business-to-business market. Now, in over 300 stores in Arizona and 1,000 nationwide, DeBartolo hopes to grow the business to $10 million by the end of2005.

It’s entirely possible. Eleven employees manufacture nearly a million pounds of the icy treats annually in 160 different flavors, from raspberry and cream and cappuccino crunch to chocolate hazelnut and pistachio tartufo. Berto’s has even made cucumber, celery, lavender, orchid, rosewater, pineapple champagne, cranberry basil, raspberry tarragon and red chili pepper gelato…all manufactured with 100 percent natural products.

“If t has a flavor,” said DeBartolo, “we can make a gelato for you.”


In 2009, the company acquired Charl’s Ice Cream Specialties Inc., a 50-year-old company based in Woburn, Mass.

Berto’s Ice Cream is available by calling them, on the company’s Website, at restaurants like The Blue Burrito (Phoenix), Roaring Fork (Scottsdale), Monkey Box (Tucson), and at stores like A.J.’s Fine Foods, Bashas’ and Sunflower Markets.

2425 W. Utopia Road, Phoenix, AZ 85027, 623/434-1141, www.bertosicecream.com

Cerreta Candy Company

When you think of “big name” food makers in Arizona, your mind must automatically turn to Cerreta Candy Company, located in historic downtown Glendale.

The company was founded in 1968 by Jim Ceretta Sr., who learned the craft in his father-in-law’s candy factory in Ohio before moving to Arizona. Now, most of Jim’s family is involved in the business. Four sons, Jim Jr., Joe, Jerry and Jonathan (aka “Joner”), as well as Joe’s wife, Marcia, and their boys, all work there. Jim Jr. handles caramels, Joe oversees the creams, Jerry is the chocolate man, sales is Joner’s specialty and Marcia gives tours and operates the public relations aspect of the business.

Among the dozens of sugary treats Cerreta’s produces are almond toffees, French mints, premium chocolate, sugar-free chocolates, caramels, brittles and truffles. Designer-label candies are made at the facility, including those for hospitals, airports, hotels and restaurants.

Customers can browse through the extensive retail storefront and can, twice a day, Monday through Friday, take a special 30-minute guided tour of the hometown candy factory—described by Glendale residents Steve and Lynda Kersey as “a Willy Wonka wonderland”—in which the Cerreta family strive to create a fun, lively atmosphere where everyone can see candy magic being made. The staff will show you how an ocean of hot caramel transforms into individually wrapped treats and how they put the creamy center into chocolate shells.


Besides the retail storefront, there is a mail-order catalog and an online catalog where Cerreta’s sells the two-and-a-half tons of confectionery it produces daily, and candy can be purchased at select Fry’s Food Stores, Fry’s Marketplace and Safeway stores.

Long a staple in the community, Cerreta’s sponsors the Glendale Chocolate Affaire each February, serving up chocolate pizzas, tours of the factory and the state’s largest chocolate Valentine’s heart, which is raffled off to support the Glendale Mayor’s Youth Advisory Commission. “It’s about 400 pounds of chocolate,” said Joe Cerreta.

Members of the family also own and operate Cerreta Homes, Cerreta Construction and The Duckhead.

5345 W. Glendale Avenue, Glendale, AZ 85301, 623/930-9000, www.cerreta.com

Cookies From Home

Cookies From Home has been creating memories for almost three decades. The made-from-scratch cookies are baked fresh daily and make the ideal gift for every occasion…or no occasion at all. Elegantly wrapped in creative baskets, decorative tins, handmade crates and beautiful boxes, a gift from Cookies From Home is one that always stands out.

Susan and Barry Brooks founded the company at the encouragement of friends who had long been the beneficiaries of their delicious home-baked gifts. Taking their favorite family recipes and creative flair for packaging, they opened for business in 1977 as a retail store specializing in baking fresh cookies daily and creating customized gift packages. Soon, their popularity grew, as did the business, and customers began ordering gifts for friends, family and business associates near and far.

Despite their growth, the company continues to manufacture cookies fresh every day.


“Unlike most manufacturers, who have heavy equipment and enormous facilities, we do it all by hand,” said Barry Brooks. “So, our cookies really are homemade!”

With 45 employees and 12 million cookies a year, Cookies From Home has been acknowledged as being the Best Cookies in Phoenix for 12 years running by the Phoenix New Times, and were awarded the Small Business of the Year Award by the Tempe Chamber of Commerce.

Products are available in a storefront attached to the manufacturing facility, on the company’s Website and through a mail-order catalog.

1605 W. University Drive, Ste. 106, Tempe, AZ 85281, 480-894-1944, www.cookiesfromhome.com

Karsh’s Bakery

Karsh’s Bakery was founded by Jack Karsh in the 1950s. Arnie and Gloria Gardner purchased the company in the early 1960s and it has been a family-owned and operated business in the Valley ever since. The old-world recipes were brought into the shop by the Gardners, and the customers quickly realized the difference in the quality of the products. A native of Cleveland, Ohio, Arnie is a third-generation baker who learned his trade in his grandfather and father’s shop. Gloria, a native of Arizona and graduate of Central High School, handles all the retail customer service and is the wedding cake consultant.

The bakery continues to upgrade its product line, and is a full-service facility, serving crusty rye bread, chewy bagels, rich pastries, multilayer cakes, cookies, rugalach, challahs and rolls. The products are available at A.J.’s Fine Foods, Miracle Mile Delis, Park Central Deli, Don & Charlie’s, Costco, Nibblers and many other shops. Additionally, though the bakery does not have a kosher certificate, they use only the finest kosher ingredients and separate dairy from non-dairy, or pareve.

5539 N. 7thStreet, Phoenix, AZ 85014, 602/264-4874, www.karshsbakery.com

Mark Ferrari Coffee

Mark Ferrari does not make sports cars. He makes specialty coffee.

The master coffee roaster moved from Hawaii to Phoenix over a decade ago and settled down to produce his own line of coffee. And he knows coffee.

His father got a job in the 1970s running the largest Kona Coffee Cooperative in Hawaii, so Mark grew up around coffee. But he wasn’t initially interested in the business. He graduated from Valley Forge Military Academy in the top 1 percent of his class, passed up a U.S. Naval Academy nomination to attend Villanova University on an athletic scholarship and was going to pursue his own career. But he stopped in Hawaii on the way and “soon became interested in all aspects of the coffee industry…learning about how it was grown, harvested, milled and so on.” He even studied with a Japanese master roaster and attained the rank of Roastmaster.

In 1985, he and his sister founded Hawaiian Mountain Gold Coffee Co., which is still owned and operated by his family in Holualoa, along with three retail visitor shops in Kona.

In 2003, he founded his own company in Phoenix to focus on specialty world coffees, all of which are roasted fresh here in Arizona. So, when you pick up Mark Ferrari Coffee, you are transported, in Ferrari’s own words, “on a wonderful journey, where every sip is followed by a smile. Where the distinctive aroma warms not only your senses, but also your soul. Where the richness in every cup represents the devoted efforts of people a world away. Where coffees of premium quality and exceptional flavor are expertly roasted to create an unparalleled signature collection.”

Available in A.J.’s Fine Foods, Sprouts Markets and online at the company’s Website, in a distinctive old-world style packaging.


10645 N. Tatum Blvd., Ste.200-PMB 216, Phoenix, AZ 85028, 602/788-5950, www.markferraricoffee.com

Riccobono’s Italian Bakery

In the mid-1950s, Giacomo Riccobono emigrated to the United States from Palermo, Sicily. With little more than a few dollars in his pocket, Giacomo took the chance at a better life and sought his fortune in America. The place he chose to begin his search was Brooklyn, New York. With his vast knowledge in the art of baking, Giacomo was soon a sought-out commodity. Before long, the famous Ferrara Italian Bakery hired him as one of their master pastry chefs.

Giacomo became so successful at his trade, that he eventually opened his own bakery in Brooklyn. For twenty years, the business thrived. It was at this time that Giacomo’s health required him to move to a warmer climate. New York’s loss was Arizona’s gain. Being the type of individual he is, Giacomo gave the New York bakery to his sister’s family, and it still stands today.

In 1975, Napoli Bakery was born in Tempe. Once again, the business thrived. After ten years of supplying the Valley with the finest baked goods available, Giacomo decided to retire. He enjoyed it, but soon realized that his children had loved the business of baking. So, once again, being the type of person he is, Giacomo opened Riccobono’s Italian Pizzeria and Bakery. It took but a couple of years to reacquire all the old customers Giacomo had at Napoli Bakery.

Now, Riccobono’s stands as the largest family-owned and operated bakery in Arizona. Products such as bagels, croissants, Italian bread, club rolls, dinner rolls, Tuscani rolls, baguettes, party subs, hot dog buns, hamburger buns, Kaiser rolls, sandwich breads, focaccia, cannoli, pizza dough,cookies, eclairs, pignoli, cream puffs, rum cakes and much more are available in the bakery’s storefront.


184 E. Chilton Drive, Chandler, AZ 85225, 480/545-0535, www.riccobonositalian.com

Tammie Coe Cakes/MJ Breads

When she was just a lass of 10, Tammie Coe was baking cakes for her neighborhood friends. It may have seemed to be “just a phase” of childhood, but she would go on to receive her culinary and pastry training at Johnson & Wales University in Providence, R.I., and become a world-renowned chef.

She served in various locations, including pastry positions at the Biga Baker in Miami, Fla., the Scottsdale Princess in Scottsdale, Ariz., the Ritz-Carlton, Naples, Fla., and The Breakers in Palm Beach, Fla. She was also the pastry chef at Michael’s at the Citadel and at Desert Highlands, where she worked overseeing two restaurants and the banquet production for the private club. She was also the pastry chef for La Grande Orange before opening her own bakery a few doors down.

Coe’s cakes are not cakes. They’re edible artwork. Fondant-draped, sweet, finger-licking good pieces of artwork reminiscent of something straight out of a Dr. Seuss book or Alice in Wonderland. You don’t want to eat them; just look at them. But you have to eat them.


She’s got milk chocolate embedded with hazelnuts; a banana,espresso and chocolate marvel; a white chocolate with blackberries; and her famous “Zebra” cake, which is white chocolate mousse, layered with chocolate cake and raspberries. Then there’s tarts, pastries, cookies, muffins, chocolate chip cookies of immense proportions…and she does wedding cakes too.

Her husband, Michael John, founded MJ Breads at the same location, providing artisan breads for La Grand Orange. Tammie Coe products are available at La Grande Orange and on her Website.

5210 N. Central Avenue, Ste.103, Phoenix, AZ 85012, 602/840-3644, www.tammiecoecakes.com

Originally published in Northeast Mesa Lifestyle, Vol. 1:2, April 2005. A more complete and up-to-date version, with hyperlinks, can be found at http://darylmallett.blogspot.com/2013/04/flavors-of-arizona.html.

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